Where to Eat
Buffet Da Gildo. Ordere the classic porzina (cooked ham) between 2 slices of bread with a slice of fried eggplant on top. It is perfectly crunchy on the outside and meltingly soft on the inside. Via Valdirivo 20.
Just a few minute walk from Da Gildo, you can find Buffet Da Roby. Another charming, locals’ favorite located on a pedestrian street, which means you can sit outside for table service, order everything directly from the tiny window bar, or head inside, belly up to the bar while watching the ham as it’s sliced by hand into chunks and served warm and dressed with a grating of horseradish to the hungry consumers.
Via Torrebianca 32
Now that your appetite is warmed up, head over to Buffet L’Approdo which is located near the historic Mercato Coperto. Paolo and Anna have owned the place for about 30 years and are a treasured part of the history of the rebechin. Anna is the chef, preparing the food fresh every morning and changing the options daily depending on the traditional customs of the day of the week, while Paolo makes the clients laugh amongst other things. He explained that the rebechin dates back to the 50’s when port and market workers needed a hot snack, beginning at around 6 in the morning, and then continuing throughout the day. The traditional food back then was a hot bowl of goulash (meat stew), jota (sauerkraut and bean soup), or trippa (edible stomach lining) and while these are all still local favorites, the panino con porzina (ham sandwiches) or the polpette (fried meatballs) became more popular in the 80’s. This particular spot in the city is also great for people watching if you’d like to stand out on the busy sidewalk and watch the street scenes pass you by.
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Prominently situated on the corner of a small road and a pedestrian street, you’ll find the small, often less crowded but equally worth a visit, La Cantina. It’s less chaotic than some of the others, but that gives you more time to relax and talk with the owners Paolo or Emma, depending on which one of the sweet couple happens to be there at the time. They’ve also had the place for around 30 years and while they run things at a slower pace, there are a few slot machines frequented by older men sipping their wine and just the right amount of particular clientele which can keep you entertained while enjoying a quick bite and a spritz bianco.
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Now the tour takes us to one of the smallest and busiest of them all, Buffet Clai. You can’t miss it because depending on what time of day you walk by, there will be a crowd of people standing on the narrow sidewalk outside, made up of people consuming something or merely trying to get into the place. Massimiliano Clai has also had the buffet for around 30 years and learned the Istrian/Triestin recipes from his family. Watching the small staff function so well amongst the chaos would impress anyone. The most famous rebechin here is the baccala mantecato (whipped cod fish) and according to Mr. Clai, the secret is simply that he uses the basic ingredients with no fillers such as flour or bread crumbs. If he has a few minutes to spare, he’ll proudly tell you all about it.
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Ristorante Al Ferroviario
Plentiful fresh fish and seafood with a sea view to match don’t come cheap at Al Ferroviario, which literally means by the rail road. The seafood antipasti are on the expensive side for Trieste (€14 to €15), but you get big plates of fresh octopus, prawns and marinated anchovies. Pasta dishes include classics such as linguine with clams or mussels, for a reasonable €10.
+39 040422880
Eataly
Whether you’re looking for the best pizza al taglio in town (a slice of Roman-style pizza to go) or a delicious meal with a perfect view, this is the place to go. A very Italian place in a not-so-Italian Trieste, Eataly mixes high quality ingredients with class.
www.eataly.net/trieste, + 39 040 246 570
Osmiza Verginella
Nothing says summer in Trieste like a trip to one of the many osmizas located on the Carso plateau. Osmiza is a private household from which farmers sell their homemade wine and food. Osmizza Verginella’s got it all- perfect view, zesty wine, cheese, prosciutto and beautiful atmosphere.
Reserve by sending a text : +39 3488049335, www.osmize.com
Where to Sleep
Savoia Excelsior
This elegant hotel with timeless charm is only a few minutes’ walk from the main Piazza Unità. Mittleeuropean design and Austrian motifs come together in a perfect mix of timeless elegance and style. On warm days, breakfast is served on the terrace with glorious views of the sea. Some rooms have their own balconies or terraces.
+39 040 77941, https://www.starhotelscollezione.com/en/, rooms from €180
Agriturismo Milič
The hospitable Milič family run this peaceful agriturismo on farm in the Carso hills 30km east of Trieste airport. A 19th-century fortress-like building houses seven bedrooms furnished in Italian country style with heavy furniture and tiled floors. Pomegranate, lemon and grape vines frame terrace, and on clear days you can see the Adriatic Sea. The food here is exquisite – homemade gulash, civapcici and slow-cooked veal. On Sundays it’s rammed with families lingering over five-courses.
+39040 229 289, https://www.miliczagrski.com, rooms from €90
The Modernist Hotel
This smart boutique hotel is only a few minutes’ walk from Piazza della Borsa. Bold, funky design mixes a bit of 1950s modular furniture with exposed stone arches and blue motifs. Modernist’s location makes it a perfect place for a weekend getaway.
++39 040 0645690, https://themodernisthotel.eu, doubles from €138
Where to Drink
The warm, breezy nights are ideal for a summer stroll, and there are plenty of outdoor cafes for when you get a little tired and feel like sipping a spritz bianco while enjoying one of the spectacular Triestine sunsets.
Baracchino di Barcola
This tree-shaded open bar facing the water is in the thick of the action during Trieste’s summer season. It serves good solid spriz bianco, and some snacks and often has live music backdrop.
Via Lungomare Benedetto Croce, Trieste, drinks from €3.50
Pier
Huge terraces offer views of marina on one side and the city center on the other in this lively seaside bar that’s a major meeting point. The sea views will no doubt distract you from the plain interior, but do look out for the fascinating wall of photos of villagers taken over the past half-century.
Molo Venezia 1, drinks from € 4.50
Caffe degli Specchi
As much for the drinks, as for the just right location this place is loved both by locals and tourists. Come for aperitivo, stay for sunset.
Piazza Unità, drinks from € 4.50
Where to Swim
While you won’t find endless sandy beaches here, Triestini sure know how to summer and the best way to do it is by the water. Here are a few suggestions for some fun in the sun.
Pedocin (Lanterna)
Unique as Trieste itself, this beach has a wall that separates female part from male part (you read that right). Also, it’s a 5 minute walk from the center and if you are looking for a real Triestine experience, look no further (ladies tops optional, capo in b and chit-chat with tanned locals mandatory).
Ausonia
Few steps from Pedocin, you’ll find a beach club built in 1937 as Savoia beach resort. 1500 square meters of fun include swimming pool with sea water, solarium, trampolines and kiddie pool. Not to mention a bar from where you can watch amazing sunsets.
Barcola
Most famous stretch of concrete known as the best walk in winter time and best place to get a tan in the warm days. Bring your towel or your lounge chair and don’t forget to give a few friendly nods to locals lounging under the pine trees.
If you walk a little further towards Castello Miramare, you’ll find Toppolini (Miky Mouse’s ears) – ten semicircular terraces loved by youngsters. And at the end of the concrete stretch Bivio, where many a Triesto are working on their impeccable tans.
Marine Railroad Beach
Opened in 1925, it used to be reserved for the staff of the National Railroad service only. This beach has a diving platform and kid’s corner and it is hugely popular among locals as a dinner spot and after dinner dancing fun.
Filtri
This free beach can be reached by braving 64 steps down from Auguste Piccard st on the crossing of Santa Croce. The fatigue will be worth it: crystal clear water, white pebbles and some pine trees for shade. Delicious dinners are served at Bellariva café located on the shore.
Filtri FKK
Free nudist beach. Take the same steps and pass Bellariva’s terrace and follow the coastline towards the small marina. After the pine trees you’ll find what you were looking for.
Canovella degli Zoppoli
One of the most picturesque free beaches along the coast. You’ll need to climb down a tiny path located between the natural tunnel and the Ginestre beach. You’ll find a small marina and a typical local bar.
The Ginestre
One of the most famous seaside places in the 60’s, this beach is covered with tiny white pebbles and here you can rent parasols, sunbeds and have capo in bs at the beachside bar.
Costa dei Barbari
A nudist gay friendly beach reachable by walking down a little road from the parking lot in front of the Costa dei Barbari caffe. The beach with cobbles and white pebbles is completely hidden in nature.
Portopiccolo Beach Club
It’s fancy, it’s beautiful and it makes you feel like you’re at a French resort. Magnificent pools, great service and beachside cocktails will make your stay here classy and cool.
Sistiana ex Caravella
You’ll find this gem hidden between Sistiana and the former quarry. This beautiful beach (both free and with spots for sunbeds renting) has a playground for kids, small white pebbles and the view of Castle Duino in the distance.
Fido Lido
Spend a day with your pups at this beach entirely dedicated to your best four-legged friend in Muggia, some 30 minutes away from Trieste (reachable by Delfino Verde). The beach has a large open space and offers all kinds of amenities for a fun day in the sun.
Grignano 1
Located in, yes, Grignano this beach is also known as Stabilimento Balneare Sirena. The beautiful location which offers all a bather who dream of, including two family-friendly pools. It is a great place to take your kids to.
Grignano 2
Also known Stabilimento Balneare Riviera, this little piece of heaven is located just under the Hotel Riviera and you can get to it via an elevator (how fancy). It’s a go-to place for some peace and quiet.