Buffet Da Gildo. Ordere the classic porzina (cooked ham) between 2 slices of bread with a slice of fried eggplant on top. It is perfectly crunchy on the outside and meltingly soft on the inside. Via Valdirivo 20.
Just a few minute walk from Da Gildo, you can find Buffet Da Roby. Another charming, locals’ favorite located on a pedestrian street, which means you can sit outside for table service, order everything directly from the tiny window bar, or head inside, belly up to the bar while watching the ham as it’s sliced by hand into chunks and served warm and dressed with a grating of horseradish to the hungry consumers.
Via Torrebianca 32
Now that your appetite is warmed up, head over to Buffet L’Approdo which is located near the historic Mercato Coperto. Paolo and Anna have owned the place for about 30 years and are a treasured part of the history of the rebechin. Anna is the chef, preparing the food fresh every morning and changing the options daily depending on the traditional customs of the day of the week, while Paolo makes the clients laugh amongst other things. He explained that the rebechin dates back to the 50’s when port and market workers needed a hot snack, beginning at around 6 in the morning, and then continuing throughout the day. The traditional food back then was a hot bowl of goulash (meat stew), jota (sauerkraut and bean soup), or trippa (edible stomach lining) and while these are all still local favorites, the panino con porzina (ham sandwiches) or the polpette (fried meatballs) became more popular in the 80’s. This particular spot in the city is also great for people watching if you’d like to stand out on the busy sidewalk and watch the street scenes pass you by.
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Prominently situated on the corner of a small road and a pedestrian street, you’ll find the small, often less crowded but equally worth a visit, La Cantina. It’s less chaotic than some of the others, but that gives you more time to relax and talk with the owners Paolo or Emma, depending on which one of the sweet couple happens to be there at the time. They’ve also had the place for around 30 years and while they run things at a slower pace, there are a few slot machines frequented by older men sipping their wine and just the right amount of particular clientele which can keep you entertained while enjoying a quick bite and a spritz bianco.
Via Gabriele Foschiatti 4
Now the tour takes us to one of the smallest and busiest of them all, Buffet Clai. You can’t miss it because depending on what time of day you walk by, there will be a crowd of people standing on the narrow sidewalk outside, made up of people consuming something or merely trying to get into the place. Massimiliano Clai has also had the buffet for around 30 years and learned the Istrian/Triestin recipes from his family. Watching the small staff function so well amongst the chaos would impress anyone. The most famous rebechin here is the baccala mantecato (whipped cod fish) and according to Mr. Clai, the secret is simply that he uses the basic ingredients with no fillers such as flour or bread crumbs. If he has a few minutes to spare, he’ll proudly tell you all about it.
Via Ugo Foscolo 4
Ristorante Al Ferroviario
Plentiful fresh fish and seafood with a sea view to match don’t come cheap at Al Ferroviario, which literally means by the rail road. The seafood antipasti are on the expensive side for Trieste (€14 to €15), but you get big plates of fresh octopus, prawns and marinated anchovies. Pasta dishes include classics such as linguine with clams or mussels, for a reasonable €10.
+39 040422880
Eataly
Whether you’re looking for the best pizza al taglio in town (a slice of Roman-style pizza to go) or a delicious meal with a perfect view, this is the place to go. A very Italian place in a not-so-Italian Trieste, Eataly mixes high quality ingredients with class.
www.eataly.net/trieste, + 39 040 246 570
Osmiza Verginella
Nothing says summer in Trieste like a trip to one of the many osmizas located on the Carso plateau. Osmiza is a private household from which farmers sell their homemade wine and food. Osmizza Verginella’s got it all- perfect view, zesty wine, cheese, prosciutto and beautiful atmosphere.
Reserve by sending a text : +39 3488049335, www.osmize.com